XANXI: Huge pagoda in Xanxi, on the way to the plane for Beijing. We had intended to take another train, but Mr. Cai, disappointed with our first one, got most of the money for the tickets refunded and bought us seats on a modern airplane. Instead we got an old Russian prop-plane that was cramped and noisy; but the attendants kept lavishing us with gifts: cookies, a sandalwood fan, drinks, etc.