On the morning of December 28, we were welcomed at the national Ethnomusicalogical Archives by Shubha Chaudari, with whom I had been corresponding thanks to the introduction of Laurel Sercombe, our Seattle ethnomusicology friend. While Paul Smith viewed field recordings of been performers (he had ordered one of the instruments made for him and ended by buying three), Megan and I viewed the first part of an excellent documentary about the traditional temple dancers of India. Unfortunately, our visit was ended by a power outage, and Shubha kindly sent us back to our hotel in the Institute's jeep. Our entire family jammed into a bicycle rickshaw propelled by a very hard-working but seemingly fit young man for an hour's tour of Old Delhi. The ancient walled city is a Muslim enclave many of whose inhabitants seldom venture out; but it is also the center for the publishing industry. Most of the storefronts are relatively modern, but shuttered balconies like these are not rare. They look very much like similar balconies in the Middle East.