SANDYCOVE: Just southwest of Dublin, on the Irish Sea, is the Martello Tower at Sandycove, one of several originally built to repel Napoleon's forces, and occupied by Joyce and John Gogarty in 1904. Gogarty figures as "Stately, plump Buck Mulligan" in the opening words of Ulysses, set in this tower. It now houses a Joyce museum. (Warning: it closes for lunch 1:00-2:00.)