AMORGOS: Amorgos is the southernmost of the Cyclades; still very traditional, but beginning to be discovered by tourists, with the help of people like Catherine, who owns a house there. Most of the grass had turned brown by the time we arrived, but the hills were ablaze with flowering bushes. We stayed in the modest but pleasant seaside Lakki Hotel for five nights, getting acquainted with traditional Greek island life and enjoying the beaches.