CAPADOCCIA: The valley is pockmarked with monastic retreats, churches, and dovecotes carved into the rock. The former were created to capture droppings, used as fertilizer. Our tour guide took us into only one of the churches, and led a pretty fast pace through the valley. It was obvious why someone might want to hike alone, unguided, though we had a pleasant time and a nice lunch at an outdoor restaurant in the valley where a charming little boy offered Paula a flower for no apparent reason other than he liked her.