CAPADOCCIA: The underground city of Derikuyu (one of many in the area) was fascinating to tour, but no claustrophobics need apply. Even with the tunnels enlarged for bulky modern tourists, it's cramped going much of the time, and impossible to capture in a photograph. You climb through five levels of corridors, seeing rooms which were used as kitchens, bedrooms, schools, churches, and for all manner of other purposes for which they were used by months at a time by refugees from the villages up above in time of trouble. The gratings cover ancient airshafts. Smoke from their fires was routed through slanted tunnels to direct searchers away from their true location.