ANKARA: Ankara is the capital of modern Turkey, full of official buildings and modern businesses, but there is an ancient historic district centered on the old walled castle of Hisar, and that's where we headed, to stay in the wonderful Angora House Hotel. When we thought we had lost our train ticket back to Istanbul, the extremely kind hotel owner went to extraordinary lengths to find us a berth on what was officially a full sleeper car. We were sorry to be spending only one night in the hotel, though walking around Ankara proved frustrating.