EPHESUS: The main reason people come to Sel├žuk is to visit nearby Ephesus (Efes). This is one of the largest and most popular archeological sites in Turkey, and can get crowded in summer. Even in late September the crowds were fairly thick. Many Christian groups tour the area, retracing the footsteps of Paul ("Letters to the Ephesians"). When we went down to breakfast in the Hotel Kale Han on a Tuesday morning we encountered a German group engaged in a private worship service. Here we saw heavily laden pomegranate trees among the ruins. At the exit, we enjoyed fresh-squeezed pomegranate-orange drinks. Incidentally, Efes beer is the most popular brand in Turkey, advertised everywhere.