PHASELIS: Half an hour into this trip our bus stopped for the routine bus washing at a small roadside restaurant, where Paul enjoyed a European bottled peach juice but was disconcerted to discover that it was bottled by Coco-Cola. Paula fell in love with the national snack food: göleme, a sort of large crepe folded into a square around cheese and other flavorings and fried in butter. You see signs advertising them as commonly in Turkey as you do signs for burgers in the U.S. Traditionally they are served with a salty yogurt drink called iran. We saw a woman cooking them here. We stretched our legs along a nearby country lane where we spotted this row of peppers hanging up to dry--a common site around the countryside, and even in cities.