BERGAMA: Modern Bergama reveals its charms slowly. The sidewalks are crumbling and the streets dusty. The maps in the Lonely Planet guide were inadequate when we came to various wedge-shaped intersections in search of the recommended "Pergamum Restaurant" (bear right at the point of each wedge to stay on the main drag, and look for it on the left-hand side of the street if you're heading toward the Acropolis). The restaurant is contained in a remodeled Ottoman house.