BUDAPEST: The museum is brilliantly laid out, with a different approach in each room. One room is papered with secret police files, another covered with the photos of victims, and a third with photos of the torturers and bureaucrats who ran the state apparatus of oppression. A large carpet depicts the Gulag Archipelago, with selected memorabilia springing up out of some of the camps on pedestals. Two warnings to visitors: this is a museum primarily aimed at Hungarians--only a little English-language documentation is available on sheets of paper that can be picked up in most rooms; and a very slow elevator causes a huge traffic jam on the top floor where people ride down to the torture cells in the basement. If there are crowds waiting, try going down the stairs instead. But it's not to be missed: from both the historical and artistic perspectives, it's very powerful.